95 
3 

jy 1 



irardening 



m 




Southeirn 
California 

By H. E. Sies 



Gardening 



in: 



Southern 
California 

BY 

H. E. SIES 

SAN DIEGO, CALIFORNIA 






Price, 50 Cents 



0,5 






Copyright 1918 
By H. E. Sies, San Diego, California 



DEC 30 1918 



Hart, 33 1 F 



San Diego 



©Gi.A511i4o 



Read This First 



In Southern California, soil conditions are so varied, 
that there can be no set rule for its preparation any 
further than the use of decomposed vegetation, cow 
and horse manure will apply everywhere. 

Most chemical fertilizers in time leave the soil in 
an impoverished condition. 

The various fertilizers that will be mentioned in 
this booklet, are soil builders to a more or less degree. 

Your own experience must determine the one or 
ones best suited for your use. 

The writer will adhere strictly to the planting and 
growing conditions for Southern California, as they 
apply to city homes, and in compiling this booklet 
has only one aim and thought in mind. That is to 
endeavor to place before its readers in as plain and 
clear a manner as possible how to prepare the soil and 
succeed in the growing of those things the most uni- 
versally sought for. 

If he has succeeded in placing the subject matter 
in a way that the reader gets the full value out of it, 
he will feel that success has crowned his efforts. 

By earnest and diligent application of knowledge 
acquired only do we succeed. So in the degree that 
you set yourself about the task of getting into har- 
mony with nature and nature's ways and wonders, 
will you have the satisfaction of realizing to the fullest 
extent what a sublime builder of mind, body and char- 
acter she is. 



Calendar for Vegetable Garden 

Sowing Seed and Planting Out 
Vegetables in Following Months 



JANUARY AND FEBRUARY 

SOW— Kale Peas 

Beets Lettuce Radishes 

Carrots Onion Spinach 

Early Cabbage Parsnip Turnip 

PLANT— Potatoes Cabbage 

MARCH 

In addition to list for January and February add: 

sow- 
Cucumber 
Musk Melon 
Squash 

Cabbage 

APRIL 

Sow seed and plant same as for March with following ad- 
ditions : 



Late Cabbage 
Sweet Corn 
Egg Plant 

PLANT— 



Tomatoes 

Watermelon 

Beans 

Tomatoe 



Pepper plants and seed 



Egg Plant and Seed 



MAY 
Sow seed same as for foregoing months. 



PLANT— 


Egg Plant 


Tomatoe 


Cabbage 


Pepper 

JUNE 


Sweet Potatoes 


sow- 






Beans 


Lettuce 


Pepper 


Beets 


Musk Melon 


Pumpkin 


Cucumber 


Onion 


Radish 


Sweet Corn 


Parsnip 


Squash 


Egg Plant 


Peas 


Watermelon 


PLANT— 






Same as for May 


•. 





JULY 



SOW— 



Beans 
Beets 
Lettuce 


Onion 
Pumpkin 


Radish 
Summer Squash 


PLANT- 


Cabbage 

AUGUST 


Cauliflower 


SOW— 






Beans 

Beets 

Early Cabbage 

Cauliflower 


Kale 

Lettuce 

Onion 


Peas 
Radish 
Tomatoes * 



*For winter crop in frostless sections. 
PLANT— Potatoes 

SEPTEMBER 
SOW — Same as for August with addition of Parsnips. 
PLANT— Potatoes 

OCTOBER 

Same as for August with exception of omitting Tomatoes. 

NOVEMBER AND DECEMBER 
Same as for October. 



You can sow every month in the year: 

Beets Lettuce Turnips 

Carrots Radish 



Plant Onion sets all year round. 



5' 



Calendar for Flower Garden 

Sowing Seed and Planting Out 
Flowers in the Following Months 



JANUARY AND FEBRUARY 

SOW — Centaurea, or Larkspur 

Alyssum Wall Flower Migonette 

Calliopsis Cosmos Poppies 

Candytuft Gaillardia Sweet Peas 

MARCH 

Sow same as above with following additions: 
Aster Dahlia Zinnia 

APRIL 

Sow same as for preceeding months with following addi- 
tions : 

Morning Glory Shasta Daisy Discontinue Sweet 

Cypress Vine Verbena Peas 

Marigold Wall Flower 

MAY 
Sow same as for preceeding months. 

PLANT— 

Dahlia Bulbs Chrysantheum Pentstemon 

Aster Zinnia Salvia Plants 



JUNE 



Discontinue seed-sowing. 
Plant same as for May. 





JULY 


Discontinue seed- 


-sowing. 




AUGUST 


SOW— 

Cineraria 
Pansy 


Stocks 

Snap Dragon 



Christmas flowering 
Sweet Peas 



SEPTEMBER 
Sow same as for August with addition of Shasta Daisy. 

OCTOBER 

SOW— California Poppy Stocks 

"Pot Merigold" Larkspur Poppies 

Everlasting FlowersMigonette California Wild 

Candytuft Winter Sweet Peas Flowers 

Cosmos Pansy 

Plant all kinds of Bulbs. 

Dutch Bulbs Narcissus Etc., Etc. 

Hyacinths Jonquils 

NOVEMBER AND DECEMBER 
Sow same as for October, including planting of Bulbs. 



Roses 



Roses as a class do not thrive in a dry climate, 
therefore the list for San Diego is very limited, — 
scarcely a dozen varieties in bush roses. In climbing 
roses, five or six varieties and you have the list of 
truly desirable climbers. But it is most gratifying to 
know that this limited number serves us well. 

If I were putting in a private garden for myself, I 
would confine myself to the following list: 

General McArthur Kaiserine Augusta Vic- 
White Cochet toria 
Frau Karl Druschki Pink Cochet 
La Detroit Mm. Able Chatenay 
Cecil Brunner 

Souver de Pierre Notting is the nearest yellow that 
I would give garden room to. Mrs. A. R. Waddell, a 
reddish apricot toned with salmon, and the new rose, 
Los Angeles. 

This list with ordinary care will give good results. 

Budded stock is much more desirable than those 
grown on their own roots, the bushes will be stronger 
and last four times as long. In climbers, the Climbing 
Cecil Brunner, Lamarque, Reve d'Or, Mme. A. Car- 
riere, Dorothy Perkins, (the latter named being sub- 
ject to mildew) and Thousand Beauties, would be 
my limit for climbers. White, pink and red Cherokees 
are extra good for hedges. Rose bushes will not do 

8 



well in sandy soil. A heavy, loamy soil, well en- 
riched with horse maniie is the best. Where the soil 
is light and sandy use cow manure. Dig holes at least 
eighteen inches deep, and two feet across. Prepare 
the soil and treat in the same manner as for fruit trees. 
The amount of manure to be used being three shovels- 
ful to each hole thoroughly mixed with the soil. Rose 
bushes should be spaced at least three feet apart. 
Where it is budded stock, plant the bud at least two 
inches under ground. 

Your nurseryman will show you the bud and ex- 
plain it to you. Also have him prune out any broken 
or mutilated roots. He should also prune back the 
roots and the top of the rose bush, removing all of 
the small twigs. 

In planting, lay the roots in the hole in their natural 
position, fill in the dirt and press firmly around the 
bush with your foot, leave a space around your rose 
bush the same diameter as the hole, having a rim of dirt 
high enough to let the water run slowly to the depth 
of four inches, when the water has soaked into the 
ground, then draw the loose dirt into the depression. 
This mode of planting applies to trees, shrubs and 
vines. Weather conditions govern how often to irri- 
gate. 

When trees and shrubs have no leaves on them, they 
require but little moisture. The more leaves they have 
the more moisture they require. There is little danger 
of over watering rose bushes during the growing sea- 
son, from spring to early fall in fact, the danger lies 
the other way — they do not get enough. I get my 
best results irrigating once a week. Do the irrigating 
in the forenoon, also wash off the foliage every three 
or four weeks. I am not in sympathy with resting 
rose bushes by withholding water from them during 
July and August, until they have been established in 

9 



the ground at least two years. I have seen more rose 
bushes ruined and lost by withholding- water from 
them than all causes put together, especially if the soil 
is not as heavy as it should be. You should try to 
arrange to do your planting of rose bushes during the 
months of January, February and the fore part of 
March. The nurserymen are usually prepared to fur- 
nish you rose stock at all times, having them in boxes 
and large cans, which are planted out at any time of 
the year, causing no harm to or setting back the 
bushes in their growth. 

The pruning of rose bushes should be done during 
December and January. In the list of rose bushes 
that I have named, only the Frau Karl Druschki should 
have the main stocks trimmed back severely, as it 
makes a growth anywhere from six to twelve feet 
high, often being mistaken for a climber. It should 
be pruned back to within four or five feet of the 
ground. Prune off every side shoot there is on the 
main stalks, close up to the stalk, cut out all small or 
stunted stalks and the ends of the main stalks where 
they start to get small at the ends. Let the main 
stocks be absolutely stripped of every leaf or twig 
that has a leaf. Bear this fact in mind, — only the 
new growth that comes from the main stocks produces 
rose blooms. 

In January or February proceed to fertilize with 
fresh horse manure if the soil is heavy, if sandy or light 
use cow manure, to a depth of four or five inches. (Do 
not guess it but measure.) The surface of the ground 
to be covered to be not less than two feet in all direc- 
tions from the base of the bush and farther if your 
bushes are large and the root system extends farther. 
After the manure has laid four or five weeks and the 
winter rains have carried much of the strength from 
the fertilizer to the roots, spade or fork it all under, 



10 



using care not to injure or tear the roots, working close 
to the surface of the ground, as you near the base of 
the bushes. 

To employ the same system in pruning your climb- 
ing rose bushes would be nothing short of butchery 
and ruin for them. Those fine new long shoots that 
come out, getting in everybodys way and looking so 
out of place are the ones to be saved. In climbing 
rose bushes, the new growth of this year gives the 
great profusion of bloom next season. Save them by 
all means. Cut out as much as is necessary of the old 
part of the vine to give a place for the new growth. 
Climbing rose bushes that are planted where the root 
system reaches the lawn need no special care or at- 
tention after once getting established. 



Dahlias 



No flower has made such rapid strides and come into 
universal favor to as great a degree as the Dahlia has 
during the past few years. Especially is this true on 
the Pacific Coast where climatic conditions are ideal 
to its fullest development in size and beauty. 

There is quite a list of varieties, the most of which 
the general public has as yet but little interest in. The 
three varieties that are in universal favor are : First, 
The cactus type, the petals being for the most part 
narrow and quilled. 

The decorative type which has broader petals, on 
the order of large rose blooms. 

11 



Then the Peony, or Art Dahlias as some are pleased 
to designate them. These as a rule are semi-double, 
petals are large, broad and often times irregular, 
which adds more than it takes from their beauty. 

Dahlias will thrive in any kind of soil, providing 
they have proper care. They give the best results in 
sandy or loose soil that does not dry down hard after 
watering. The heavier the soil, the more work and 
fertilizer is required. Chemical action in heavy soils 
seems to take up fertilizer much more rapidly than in 
lighter soils. 

In Southern California, Dahlias can be planted any 
time from March to July, coming into bloom in from 
six to eight weeks after planting. They do quite well 
in partial shade but full sunlight is best. 

To get the best results they should not be planted 
closer than three feet in the row and four feet between 
the rows. The ground should have a covering of either 
cow or horse manure at least three inches deep, — the 
same being worked into the ground to a depth of 
twelve inches. This should be done at least four or 
five weeks before planting time, — using care that none 
of the manure comes in contact with the Dahlia tuber 
when planting, as it may give them the scab, an in- 
fectious disease to be avoided. Do not stand the tuber 
on end, or plant in a vertical position but almost flat or 
horizontal with the neck or bud end a little higher. 
From the top of the tuber to the top of the ground 
when the tuber has been covered, it should be four 
inches, in other words, the tuber should be planted 
four inches deep, counting from the top of the tuber. 
Keep the ground moist but not wet until they begin to 
grow nicely. As they make stock and foliage, more 
moisture is required. 

^ When the buds begin to mature, the irrigating, fer- 
tilizing and cultivating begin in earnest. After irri- 

12 



gating do not let the ground dry out hard at any time 
from the time the tuber is put into the ground until 
you desire to have them stop blooming. In heavy soil, 
cultivation usually follows on the second day after 
watering. Use a three or five prong hand cultivator. 
Having planted your tubers four inches deep, you can 
safely cultivate to a depth of two inches. 

When they commence to bloom, plant food is taken 
up very fast. Work in a teacupful of bone meal to 
each plant about once in every six or eight weeks. If 
you have chickens, make liquid manure from their 
droppings and apply after irrigating. You can add 
along with it a tablespoonful of domestic ammonia to 
each gallon of water or liquid. Apply from one to two 
quarts to each plant. 

Liquid chicken, sheep or goat manure is very strong 
and must be well diluted. A receptacle filled one- 
quarter full of manure and then filled with water, 
should be diluted four times more before applying. 
It should be made up 24 to 48 hours before applying. 

I rely on the liquid sheep manure and the ammonia, 
once a week during the blooming season. I irrigate 
every five to six days. As soil conditions vary so, 
there cannot be any set rules in these things, each 
and every one having to work out these problems 
from their own experience and observations. If you 
do not care to cultivate the ground the entire season, 
you can, when the Dahlias begin to bloom, mulch with 
coarse horse manure using care to keep the manure 
at least two inches away from the Dahlia stock, as it 
would harbor aphis, which would soon destroy the 
plant. Dahlias can be grown to a very large size by 
dis-budding, only allowing a few blooms to the plant. 
In the summer time when the days are long, and there 
are no fogs it is of great benefit to the Dahlias to give 
them an overhead spraying in the morning before the 

13 



sun gets hot. The water will not harm any of the 
bloom, except the white ones, which you must avoid 
getting wet. Do not do this in foggy weather, as it 
will induce mildew. 

At the least sign of mildew, give a dusting of dry 
sulphur, which will check the mildew at once. By 
keeping the blooms cut off, and not allowing them to 
remain, with faithful care in the matter of fertilizing, 
water and cultivation, they can be kept blooming well 
into November, providing weather conditions remain 
favorable. 

Do not withhold water from them altogether when 
the blooming season is past. Do not be in a hurry to 
have the tops die off. When the tops have dried off, 
do not cut them down close to the ground, but leave 
the main portion of the main stocks on until you go 
to divide the tubers in the spring. The stocks are 
hollow and if cut close to the ground, the water from 
the winter rains will run down this hollow place and 
often cause the base of the stock to rot away, some- 
times being the cause of losing the entire clump. This 
treatment applies to a frostless climate. 

Where they have frost and freezing weather, the 
Dahlias are taken up after the tops have been killed 
by the frost, — the tops cut back to ten inches above 
the ground. The Dahlias are left lying on the top of 
the ground for a day or so to dry off. Then put into 
a cellar or a similar place to protect them from freez- 
ing during the winter and replanted in the spring, 
when the ground has warmed up and all danger of 
frost is passed. 

Where the soil is sandy and has good drainage, it 
is all right to leave them in the ground, hilling the 
soil around the stocks until near the first of March, 
but if the soil is the kind that packs down hard and 

14 



holds water, then they must be taken up before the 
heavy rains begin. 

Prepare a place where it is shady if possible, by 
digging down about four inches, take the Dahlias up 
with all the soil that will stick to them, set them in 
this place that you have prepared and put dirt all over 
them in such a manner that the water from the rains 
will drain away from them. 

In our climate they need a little moisture all the time 
otherwise they dry out and are lost. 

If you have never grown any Dahlias, you will do 
well to remember the following instructions, for un- 
less you are informed as to how to divide your Dahlia 
tubers from the clump, you are going to ruin and lose 
the entire lot. 

When you receive your Dahlia tubers from the 
grower in the spring, by looking closely you will see 
that the tuber has no sprouts coming out of it, but 
that it is connected by what is known as a neck to a 
piece of the base of the stock which grew up out of 
the ground and had the blooms on. Here is where the 
eye is or new sprouts come from that push up through 
the ground and make the new plants. All new growth 
comes out from the base of the old stock. The tubers 
are feeders, nothing more, and if broken off at the 
base of the stock to which they are attached, they 
produce nothing and are worthless. 

Before dividing your Dahlia tubers it is best to wait 
until the buds begin to show up a little, then cut in 
so as to get one or two buds that will be attached to 
one or two tubers. 

When you are ready to divide your Dahlias, do not 
shake the dirt or jar it from off your Dahlia clumps, 
but remove the dirt by gently digging out, or turn a 

15 



strong stream of water on from the garden hose and 
wash the dirt out. It will be well to procure a key- 
hole saw. The blade is very narrow, and have it filed 
for a cut-ofif saw. The hardware dealer will explain. 
Saw ofif the old stock close down to the tubers, not 
below any buds. Then saw down through the center 
of the stock, which is in the center of the tubers. If 
there are a large number of tubers attached to the 
stock, you are going to lose some of them for there 
will not be enough of the stock to go around. After 
you have sawed through, then you can finish the job 
with a sharp, thin bladed knife, — something a little bit 
stronger than a potato knife, though a potato knife 
does very well. Make a clean cut right straight 
through with either saw or knife. Under no circum- 
stances do any prying for that bruises the wood and 
causes it to decay. 

The key-hole saw that I have referred to you will 
find to be one of the best instruments you ever had 
for a general purpose tool for getting into narrow 
places for pruning out shrubs, trees and vines. It far 
surpasses the best pruning saw I know of. 

Notes: The best time to put stakes at your Dahlias 
is when you plant the tubers. Drive so they will be 
on the east side of the plant. As the stock grow up 
tie them with a soft, but strong twine (sacking twine 
is extra good). As the prevailing winds come from 
the West, it is more desirable to have the stakes on 
the East side, so that if the string for any reason should 
come apart, the plant will rest against the stake, as 
it would not do if the stake had been on the West 
side. I use the ordinary lath, sharpening ofif one end, 
they are inexpensive and satisfactory. 

The best time to cut the bloom is in the cool of the 
morning, followed at once by boiling the tip ends of 
the stems for about three minutes, which greatly aids 

16 



their keeping qualities. Dahlias cut right after an 
irrigation will keep but a short time, in fact not at all. 

Growing Dahlias from seed. Very few are aware 
that by planting dahlia seed in March they will be in 
full bloom by August. 

By procuring seed from growers who save seed 
only from their best stock, makes it possible to get 
some very fine new varieties. It is highly fascinating 
and well worth the effort. 

Seed from cheap and common stock is a sure waste 
of time and effort. Get the best and see how much 
pleasure you get out of it. 



Sweet Peas 



California has outstripped the world in the growing 
of sweet peas. In seed alone the growers have a mar- 
ket far exceeding a hundred tons a year. 

The early or fast growing type known as the winter, 
or Christmas Sweet Peas, seem to give the best satis- 
faction. 

You can plant as early as August but if the weather 
should be unusually dry or hot, they will make slow 
progress until the rains come. They like rich soil that 
is inclined to be firm. Where the soil is sandy and 
loose, work in rotted cow manure that has been spread 
on the ground four inches deep. 



17 



As you sow sweet peas in rows, it is not necessary 
to fertilize over a large space. Twelve to sixteen 
inches wide is sufficient and whatever length the rows 
are going to be. They should have a sunny situation 
and the rows run north and south. 

As previously stated, if the soil is of a loose sandy 
nature when ready for planting take a short piece of 
board, — say two feet long and press the soil down by 
standing on the board. Then let the water run slowly 
on the soil until it is thoroughly wet, after which sow 
the seed quite thick in the center of the row. Cover 
to a depth of about one inch and gently press down 
the soil. A covering of fine rotted manure to the 
depth of i/2-inch would be good and help retain the 
moisture. See that they are kept moist but not soak- 
ing wet. When the new shoots are coming through 
the ground, look out for insect pests. Do not Avait un- 
til your sweet peas are up and laying over on the 
ground before fixing something for them to climb on. 
Do it at the time of planting. 



Pansies 



A bed of these delightful and care dispelling plants 
with their inexhaustible supply of bright colored 
blooms is one of the most desirable to have for winter 
and spring flowers. Seed can be sown from August 
to January. Shallow boxes should be used not more 
than four inches deep. See that the box is not water 
tight, but that the water can drain throueh. Use eood. 



18 



rich soil consisting of about I/3 rotted manure, Vs leaf 
mould and 1/3 good garden soil. Press the dirt down 
in the box, then thoroughly soak with water. To press 
the soil down and make a nice smooth surface use a 
piece of board or something of that nature, then after 
the soil has taken all the water it will hold, sow your 
seed and cover with just enough fine leaf mould or 
sand so that you cannot see any trace of seed. Press 
down gently with your piece of board. 

The water you have put in the soil will provide, all 
the necessary moisture for several days if you do not 
allow the sun and wind to dry them out. To avoid this 
condition cover with piece of light muslin, burlap or 
glass that has been white washed, (even dust sprinkled 
on the glass will do). Anything to subdue the hot 
rays of the sun and at the same time let some warmth 
on the soil. 

Have the box raised off the ground so that insect 
pests cannot get at the seed or plants. 

Under no circumstances allow the seed to dry out 
during its germinating period as it will be ruined. 
When the plants show six or eight leaves, plant out 
in beds in a sunny place, not shade, where the soil has 
had a top dressing of well-rotted manure at least three 
inches deep, well worked into the soil to a depth of six 
or seven inches. Sugar beet lime is fine to add to the 
soil, especially is it so in regard to heavy, sticky soil. 
It keeps it from getting sour and is a wonderful help 
in every way. It should be sprinkled on the soil about 
y2 to 1 inch deep and also worked in. Lime should be 
used for all outdoor planting during the rainy season. 

Pansy beds must have good drainage. Should be 
two or three inches higher than the walks around 
them. Set the plants about eight inches apart. Never 
allow them to suffer for water. Do not keep the soil 

19 



soaked but moist. Cultivate the soil just deep enough 
to keep it from crusting after watering. 

A mulch of rotted manure about an inch thick on 
the surface of the bed, will be highly beneficial. 

The directions for sowing pansy seed in boxes will 
apply to all seeds that should be started in that man- 
ner, such as Aster, Dahlia, Pentstemon, Snap Dragon, 
Salvia, Zinnia, Shasta Daisy, Verbenia, etc. 

When it becomes necessary to water these seed 
boxes, it is best to set the box in a tub with just enough 
water to come close to the top of the box, as it sets in 
the water, and let the soil in the box take it up from 
underneath instead of the top. Do not allow the water 
to come up above the surface of the soil in the box. 
Let this watering be done in the morning. When the 
seed begins to sprout, keep the cloth or glass at least 
ten inches above the box to allow a free circulation 
of air during the day. 

As the plants grow let them have a little sunshine 
each day, increasing the length of time a little every 
day as the plans grow until they get where only partial 
protection is needed. 

It is best to let the plants have the morning sun be- 
fore the wind begins to blow. 

In planting seed of any kind in the open ground, 
either vegetable or flower, if done during the dry sea- 
son, the ground must be thoroughly soaked to the 
depth of 2 feet or more. Fertilizer thoroughly worked 
in, and soaked with water again as soon as it is dry 
enough to work up nicely. iSow the various seeds ac- 
cording to directions given on the seed packets, or 
by the dealer. 

Spread sacking over the seed and keep moist by 
sprinkling water on the sacking. Remove the sack- 

20 



ing as soon as the seed has sprouted np out of the 
ground. 



fe 



This applies to dry weather planting. During the 
rainy season, when there is moisture in the air, the 
sacking can be dispensed with, unless the days should 
happen to be extra warm and dry. 



Preparing the Soil and Planting of 
Fruit Trees 



Unless the soil is properly prepared in advance for 
the planting of trees and shrubs, for your flower and 
vegetable gardens, your efforts will come to naught. 
Soils that dry out hard after the rains or irrigations, 
should have a dressing of coarse horse manure, and 
for light, sandy soil cow manure to the depth of four 
to five inches. Turn under with a spading fork, 'then 
give a good soaking with water, when sufficiently dry 
so it works up nice and loose, give the ground another 
spading over. Then take a vineyard hook or a potatoe 
digger and proceed to pulverize the soil and mix in the 
manure. If the manure is fresh, which I prefer, plant- 
ing should not follow under three or four Aveeks after 
putting the manure in the ground. If the manure is 
rotted before putting into the soil, planting can fol- 
low at once. 

For fruit trees, holes as a rule should be dug at least 
three feet in diameter and three feet deep. A wheel- 
barrow load of manure dumped into the bottom of 
each hole and another wheelbarrow load mixed into 



21 



the soil that goes back into the hole is a good rule 
to go by. 

Put the prepared soil back into the holes and thor- 
oughly soak with water. This work should be done 
three or four weeks before tree planting time. 

Where the planting is done in heavy soil plant all 
trees, shrubs and vines so that the water from the 
winter rains will drain away and not stand or settle 
around them, for you will lose them if this condition 
is allowed to prevail. 

January and February are the best months to plant 
bare root stock, though the early part of March will do. 



Plant Pests and How to Get 
Rid of Them 



Ants: Here is where "a. stitch in time saves nine." 
During the rainy season is a good time to locate and 
exterminate these pests, for the reason that the rains 
make it easy to locate them. Whenever a hill is lo- 
cated dig into it until you see the white eggs showing 
up. Have a kettle of boiling water at hand and pour 
it in. 

If they get to working at the roots of plants, make 
up the following solution in any amount or proportion 
needed : Shave one pound of Fish Oil soap into one 
gallon of water. Add one pint of crude carbolic acid. 
Boil for about twenty-five minutes, using care not to 
let it boil over. Dilute this mixture at the ratio of 

22 



one to twenty parts of water. Use freely around the 
roots. It can be poured into ant hills in place of hot 
water. It will not injure the plants. 

Rose Beetle: Or known as Elephant bugs. They are 
a hard-shelled brown beetle, wingless, about ^-inch 
long, with a raised back which gives them a slight ap- 
pearance to an elephant. They will feed on almost 
anything that has leaves. Equal parts of sulphur and 
Paris Green dusted over the foliage makes a clean 
sweep of them. Arsenate of lead solution is also rec- 
ommended. Use about two teaspoonsful of the pow- 
dered arsenate of lead to each gallon of water. Used 
as a spray. 

House plants, especially ferns, often become infected 
with aphis and soft scales. A cube of toilet soap, one 
inch square, dissolved in one quart of water, used as a 
spray or dashed on with a whisp broom. Wash off 
with fresh water after twenty-four hours. 

As to plant lice, or aphis, which infest the new- 
growth of rose bushes, there are concentrated extracts 
of tobacco on the market that require only the proper 
dilution by water to make them available for use. 
"Black Leaf 40" has a high rating as a nicotine solu- 
tion. This can be procured at any of the seed stores. 
Add in a little toilet soap, just enough to make the 
water show it a little. 

Western Twelve-Spot Cucumber Beetle. Its color is 
a bright green with black spots. The State Horti- 
cultural Commission recommends Arsenate of Lead. 
Slugs and Snails. Where the plants are young and 
tender, use four ounces of powdered Arsenate of Lead 
to ten gallons of water. (Arsenate of Lead is put up 
in two forms, — paste and powdered.) The powdered 
is considered preferable. If the plants or foliage is 
strong and well developed, use six ounces to the same 



23 



amount of water. This remedy applies to all leaf-eat- 
ing pests. 

Thrips. They are so small that they are classified as 
mites, and make their appearance in dry weather, 
working on the underside of the leaf, which become 
spotted and have a pale grayish color. The leaves 
finally drop ofif, leaving the plant or shrub bare. Spray 
the underside of the leaves with tobacco water. Also 
fertilize and water the plants freely. Fuchsias and 
Dahlias are especially subject to them. 
Tree Tanglefoot. When a band of it is put around a 
tree, shrub or plant, no insect can pass it. One appli- 
cation will remain effective for three months in any 
kind of weather. Can be procured at any seed store. 
If spread on places where birds alight, they will leave 
and your seed beds will have a chance. 

To keep birds out of fruit trees, run a pole up 
through the tree with a little perch nailed to the top 
of the pole, put insect tanglefoot on this perch; also 
put a little in places on the branches of the trees. 
Mildew. Lose no time in dusting sulphur on the af- 
fected parts. It is one of the worst things we have to 
contend with on rose bushes. The best time to apply 
is early in the morning when the foliage is damp and 
there is no wind blowing. 

Scab on potato or dahlia tubers. It is advisable be- 
fore planting either potatoes or dahlia tubers to put 
them into a solution prepared as follows : Two fluid 
ounces of Formalin, being the same as one-eighth of 
a pint to four gallons of water. Immerse the uncut 
potatoes or dahlia tubers for two hours, take them 
out and dry off a little, then plant. 

Sow Bugs or Slaters. This pest feeds upon germinat- 
■ -g seeds, tender foliage, buds, fruits, many varities 

24 



HIP" 



of roots and root crops. Raise any box, board or any- 
thing that they can get under, and you will find hun- 
dreds of them. I have seen them not wait for the 
seed of vegetables and flowers to sprout but go in the 
ground after it. Many persons have wondered why 
the seed never came up which they planted. In most 
cases, the reason can be traced to these pests. 

Make a poison bait of the following, which will not 
only apply to Sow bugs, but to Slugs, Snails and Cut 
Worms also. 

Bran 6 pounds 

Paris Green % pound 

Molasses 5^ pint 

Thoroughly mix, adding sufficient water to make it 
moist but not sticky and scatter around where you 
find them the most numerous. 

Scale on Orange, Lemon and Grapefruit trees. If 
your trees are infested with scale, consult the County 
Horticultural Commission, who will inspect the trees 
and inform you when and the best way to handle them. 

Any disease making its appearance on trees, shrubs 
or plants, any insect pest that you do not recognize or 
know how to combat, lose no time to inform the Horti- 
cultural Commissioner about it. 



25 



Odds and Ends 



If you keep chickens or rabbits, when dressing them 
do not waste the blood, but save it, add about thirty 
times as much water and pour Hberally about once a 
month into your hanging baskets, potted ferns, be- 
gonias, etc. It works wonders with all plants in the 
open ground as well. 

A little bone meal sprinkled into the potted plants 
and scratched into the soil in the spring time is extra 
good. 

A tablespoonful of domestic ammonia to a gallon of 
water is good for plants of all kinds. Use liberally 
right after watering. 

Asparagus Springeri in hanging baskets or in pots 
after a season or so crowd themselves out so that it is 
advisable to pry them out, take a hatchet and cut away 
a large portion of the outside of the root system, and 
replant in new soil in which bone meal at a ratio of a 
handful to a bucketful of soil has been thoroughly 
mixed. This should be done in the early spring time. 
Any good fertilizer will do, if bone meal is not at hand. 

Under no circumstances plant Eucalyptus trees on 
a city lot. Nothing else can grow under or near them. 

26 



Fig trees have no tap roots, but have many little 
fiberous roots that work close to the surface of the 
ground. Never allow the ground to dry out from the 
spring time until the crop has been gathered. 

During the winter time put on some fertilizer and 
spade under. A good thing to do to all of your trees. 
This should be done as far out, if not farther, than the 
spread of the branches. 

Do not leave horse or cow manure out in an exposed 
condition to the wind and sun for any length of time 
as it will deteriorate very rapidly. 

Fertilizers of any kind after being incorporated into 
the soil, three or four months have lost the major por- 
tion of their fertilizing value through chemical action, 
especially is this so of horse and cow manure. Fast 
growing plants take up fertilizer very rapidly. 

One of the best habits to acquire is never attempt to 
sow or plant anything without first fertilizing the soil, 
which does not mean to throw it on the ground in any 
old way, but work it into the ground thoroughly. 

Orange and Grapefruit trees often when young and 
just coming into bearing will drop their fruit, just 
after it is nicely started. This is invariably caused by 
over-watering. Never water citrus trees until the 
ground becomes dry, not only on top but ten or twelve 
inches deep. 

Lawns if not faithfully cared for are soon crowded 
out by other growths that are in no wise desirable. 
Early in the spring I prefer a good commercial fertil- 
izer, of which there are several on the market. Then 
in June a dressing of sifted cow manure is extra good, 
though you run the risk of introducing weed pests 
that you cannot get rid of easily. 

27 



Some lawns pack down so hard that jabbing" a spad- 
ing- fork in the lawn when moist and prying a little 
loosens the soil so that water and air get down into 
the ground better. 

Lime water should be given all potted plants at least 
once a month. It sweetens the soil and destroys in- 
jurious insects that may be in the soil. This also ap- 
plies to plants, shrubs, etc., in the open ground. It is 
easily prepared by filling an old keg, tub, bucket or any 
thing suitable about one-fifth or sixth full of lime and 
filling up with water, letting it stand for two or three 
days before using. 

Hydrangeas when they begin to push out their new 
growth in the spring time should have a heavy fer- 
tilizing of some kind, it means large blooms. 

When you wish the color of the blooms to be purple, 
bury some pieces of old iron around the roots. 

Do not waste the grass from the lawn, weeds, leaves 
from shrubs or trees, vegetable tops, everything of this 
nature should be dumped into a hole in an out of the 
way place and kept wet. In the iSpring time you will 
find the finest leaf mould for your ferns, begonias, and 
seed boxes. Do not dump the dish water into the sink 
but pour it around your rose bushes, trees, shrubs and 
flowering plants. Do not do it when things are not in 
need of moisture. 

Bury the garbage around in the garden, it is needed 
there. 

In sowing fine seed in shallow boxes or open ground 
it is important that in covering the seed the soil should 
be fine and evenly spread on. This is highly import- 
ant. And a good way to do is to get a small, shallow 
box, — something you can easily hold in one hand. 

28 



Knock the bottom out of it and put window screen on 
in place. This enables you to dust it on all right. 
These boxes can be had from your grocer. 

The hole in which you dump your grass, weeds, 
leaves, etc., owing to the moisture will be a favorite 
place for snails, slugs, sow bugs and other garden 
pests, in fact it will be headquarters for them. 

An excellent opportunity for you to make way with 
them by the use of the insecticides mentioned else- 
where. 

Sprinkling should be resorted to for lawns, seed 
beds, ferns and begonias. Ferns and begonias grow 
their roots near the surface and should have a mulch- 
ing of leaf mould two inches deep every spring. 

With all deep rooting plants, trees and shrubs, 
sprinkling should never be resorted to except to wash 
oflf the foliage once in three or four weeks. The hose 
should be laid on the ground and the water run slowly 
until the soil has taken all it will absorb. Then don't 
forget to cultivate. 

Coprosma, a shiny leaf shrub so extensively used in 
front of residences, should have the tip ends of the 
new growth kept pinched off. It makes the growth 
compact and keeps it from growing coarse and un- 
sightly. 

There is but one way to find out when trees, plants 
and shrubs need water. Go around with the hoe every 
day or so and dig down three or four inches. 

Eternal vigilance in fertilizing, irrigating and culti- 
vating during the growing and dry time of the year 
spell success. Don't forget it. 



29 



Blood meal is extra good for flowering plants of all 
kinds. It gives a beautiful rich green to the foliage, 
and adds to the color and beauty of the blooms. 

For a Dahlia that is budding for bloom, sprinkle a 
handful on the surface of the ground around the plant 
as far out as the roots go and stir into the soil. 

The same amount for rose bushes and other plants 
according to their size. Repeat as their needs may in- 
dicate. 



No expense has been spared 
to assemble one of the fine^ 
and mo^ up - to - date Blue 
Ribbon colledion of Dahlias 
in the United States. : : : : 

A look through my 1919 
catalogue, which will be mail- 
ed to any address on applica- 
tion, will convince you : : : 

SIES DAHLIA GARDENS 

3378 Granada Street, - San Diego, California 
Phone, Hillcrest 2020. H. E. Sies, Proprietor 



30 




Remember the Bird. 

USE 




Vj AVI \J 1 J\ ^AGRICULTimAL 

UME 

FERTILIZER PLANT FOODS 

Prepared by Specialists for Your Particular Needs 
Produces Beautiful Roses, Flowers and Lawns 

— Let us Advise and Help You — 



The Pacific Guano & Fertilizer Co. 

Both Phones Lime ROBT. H. WINN 

21^7 Manure Sales Agent 

I Z / Fertilizers 5 1 1 -533 7th St., San Diego 



Get Seeds That Grow 

FROM 

SELEY'S SEED STORE 

644 E Street : : : Between 6th and 7th 



Roses, Palms and Pacific Phone 

Ornamental Plants Hiii.350-W-i 

Mission Valley Nursery 

E. BENARD, Proprietor 

R. F. D. No. 2 Mission Valley 

Box 156 San Diego, Cal. 

31 



Pierce -Field Hardware Co., Inc. 

Everything in Garden Tools 

The Famous Vineyard Hook, Garden Plows, Irriga- 
tion Apparatus, Wheelbarrows, Rubber Hose 
of the f size, the happy medium in hose. 

A. B. CHRISTOPHER 

2928 29th St. COW MANURE Hillcrest 1298 

DIRT AND SAND 

Also put in Lawns and Landscape Gardening 

J. W. GROVE 

3216 TEAMING OF ALL KINDS Phone 

I Street HORSE MANURE AND DIRT Main 1703 

S. A. HEMPHILL 

4021 32d Street 
GENERAL GARDENING, HORSE and COW MANURE 

Putting in New Lawns a Specialty 

R. E. KERR 

2176 HORSE AND COW MANURE Main 

Franklin St. Pine Shavings and Saw Dust 5683 -R 

J. F. RICKEY 

cow MANURE DAIRY Telephone, 

FOR SALE =— = Hillcrest 315-W-2 

T. B. PENICK pHones 

3075 L St. HORSE AND COW MANURE Main 4582 
GRAVEL, SAND AND SOIL Home 1488 

32 



LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS 

1 000 938 901 5 W I 




